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Ascot: Accessory; a wide scarf or necktie knotted
so that its broad ends are laid flat upon each other.
Often pinned together with a pearl stickpin and usually
worn with a cutaway tuxedo. Today all ascots are banded
for ease of use. |
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Band Bowtie: Accessory; a bowtie with an adjustable
band that wraps around the collar of the shirt and connects
with a clasp. All rental bowties are now banded. |
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Banded Collar: A formal shirt, with banded collar
only, no wing-like appendages. Worn with fancy button
covers. Usually features a wide pleated front. Also
referred to as "mandarin collar."
Besom Pocket: On a coat, a very narrow piping
above the pocket slit. Can be satin besom or self (same
fabric as coat) besom, with flap.
Button Cover: Ornamental accessory device worn
at the neck of the shirt, clipping onto the button of
the collar. Available in many styles. Usually worn with
a mandarin or crosswick collar shirt.
Button Stance: On a coat, the position where
the coat first buttons on the chest. Usually defined
as a standard, low, or high button stance.
Collar: On a coat, the turned back material
that falls around the back of the neck. Can be of satin
or same material as the coat.
Comfort Collar: On a formal shirt, a manufacturing
feature that allows for more comfort at the neck of
the shirt. The button of the collar is attached to a
small tab that slides, giving more range in movement.
Crosswick Shirt: A very modern formal shirt
with a crossover spread collar. Features a wide pleated
front. Usually worn with a fancy button cover; a tie
cannot be worn with this shirt.
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Cuff Links: Ornamental accessory device of two
parts joined by a shank, chain, or bar for passing through
buttonholes to fasten shirt cuffs. |
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Cummerbund: Accessory; a broad sash worn over
the waistband of the pants. Pleats are worn with the opening
facing up. |
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Cutaway: A formal coat also known as the morning
suit. Usually a dark grey coat worn traditionally in
the morning for weddings. Now can be worn anytime during
the day.
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Double Besom Pocket: On formal coats, two narrow
pipings in satin or self material above and below the
slit, without flap. |
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Double Breasted: A tuxedo coat which overlaps
itself in the front. Often adorned with four or six buttons.
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Double Breasted Vest: A vest which overlaps itself
in the front. Often adorned with four or six buttons.
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Euroband Tie: Accessory; a fashion tie, much
like a 4-in-hand necktie with an overstated knot. Available
in many colors, worn with a high cut vest. |
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Flap Pocket: On a coat, a standard pocket. Common
on traditional coat styles. |
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Floor Level Peak Lapel: On a coat, a type of
peak lapel in which the peak, rather than pointing upward,
runs parallel to the floor.
Formal Shoes: Patent leather or vinyl shoes
with a glossy finish. Today's selection offers a variety
of styles featuring insets and textured materials.
4-In-Hand Tie (Necktie): Accessory; a necktie
fastened with a slipknot, a man's regular necktie. Usually
worn with a stroller coat.
French Cuff: A wide shirt cuff folded back
and fastened with a cufflink. Found on 100% cotton retail
shirts.
Full Back Vest: Accessory; a vest which has
a full back panel sewn in.
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Full Dress Tails: A coat also known as the tailcoat,
being short in the front and long in the back. Very formal.
Once available only in black, now available in all colors.
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Gorge: On a coat, where the lapels start and
the collar ends. A very low gorge is down the middle
of the chest.
High Cut Vest: A vest which has more buttons
on the front, causing it to close higher and closer
to the collar. Worn with a bowtie, euroband 4-in-hand
tie, or button covers.
Lapel: On a coat, the turned back material
that falls around the front of the coat. Can be of satin
or the same material as the coat.
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Laydown Collar: A shirt similar to most men's
dress shirts, a regular fold over style collar. Usually
with pleats. |
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Mandarin Collar: A formal shirt, with banded
collar only, no wing-like appendages. Worn with fancy
button covers. Usually features a wide pleated front.
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Notch Lapel: On a coat, a notch is cut out between
the collar and the lapel. |
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Peak Lapel: On a coat, the top of the lapel is
pointed sharply upward and outward. |
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Pique Shirt: A white shirt with a waffle-like
texture on the front panel and cuffs. Worn with matching
vest and tie. Most formal. |
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Pique Vest: A white vest with a waffle-like texture.
The most traditional vest; often worn with white tie and
tails. |
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Shawl Collar: On a coat, there is no change
from the collar to the lapel; it is a rounding continuation
of the collar.
Spats: Short formal fabric shoe coverings worn
over the instep and reaching just above the ankle, usually
fastened by a strap under the foot and buttons on one
side. Once used to protect shoes from mud, now a high-fashion
accessory.
Stroller: Matching tuxedo length coat to the
cutaway. Worn with contrasting striped trousers, pearl
vest, laydown collar shirt, and 4-in-hand tie.
Studs: Accessories; small ornamental buttons
mounted on short posts for insertion through an eyelet
next to the shirt button.
Tuxedo: Specifically used to refer to a standard
length coat, single or double breasted with satin lapels.
Generally used to refer to all men's formalwear.
Vents: On a coat, an opening in the lower part
of a seam; a slit in the garment. Tuxedo types: center
vent, non-vented, side vented.
Waist Coat: A coat also known as the Spencer
or Eton. Resembles a full dress without tails. Worn
with matching or contrasting trousers.
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Wing Collar: Also known as stand up collar. A
formal shirt, usually with a pleated front that has wing-like
pointed appendages. |
